As bonito season peaks in mid-July, the port in Kesennuma, Miyagi Prefecture, buzzes as fishermen unload their catches and prepare to return to sea. A portside store selling food and other vital supplies is a magnet for these men. Among the customers were a tuna fisherman soon to depart on a yearlong voyage; saury fishermen buying compact futon for their onboard sleeping quarters; and a captain stocking up on snacks for his 23 crew members. For 3 days, we asked these men about the lure of this store - and the ocean.